Peach cobbler is a popular dessert in the South. There are two ways to make it, one resembles a pie, with a pie crust on top. And another looks like a cake. This latter one is my favorite version. It is usually served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and that was the inspiration for this soap. Usually, from what I have heard, peach fragrances tend to fade in cold process soap. However, these two have stayed strong in the soap. (I blended Market Peach and Maple Roasted Southern Peach.)
I wanted to have two vertical layers that I could sort of blend together to resemble a peach (or nectarine, which I actually prefer). And I managed to do without a divider by pouring both together in the mold, at the same time.
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I am listing below the recipe I used, materials, and a link to the video for the process.
Embeds
- Soap dough: in yellow, red and green
- This is a kit with several sculpting tools
- Melt and pour (I run out of soap dough so I made the main peach slices with melt and pour soap)
- flexible blade to cut curved slices
Colorants:
- Red: 1/4 tsp of Red Vibrance Mica + 1/4 Trial by Fire Mica for 15 oz of soap batter
- Yellow: 1.5 tsp of Banana Boat Yellow Mica + 1/8 tsp of Yellow neon pigment + 1/2 tsp of yellow vibrance
Mold:
Tall skinny mold liner, I used it with a DIY mold
Equipment
- List of regular equipment
- Hanger swirl tool (I made my own with polymer clay, but this one fits this mold)
Safety Equipment:
- Nitrile gloves
- Facial Shield (I use either a facial shield or the goggles below)
- Safety Goggles
- Respirator (I use this when mixing the lye, I mix the lye in the window sill, window opened, with a pedestal fan blowing the fumes away, better yet, freeze your distilled water prior) I also try to wear long sleeves, pants and closed shoes. In my personal experience, most of my near misses (when I feel my skin itching or a slight burning sensation), or when I come contact with the soap batter, have happened when I am wiping down the containers, when I am almost done.
Recipe Oils, Fats and Waxes
| Oil | % | Ounces | Grams |
|---|---|---|---|
| Olive Oil | 30 | 9.6 | 272.16 |
| Tallow Beef | 30 | 9.6 | 272.16 |
| Coconut Oil, 76 deg | 25 | 8 | 226.8 |
| Castor Oil | 8 | 2.56 | 72.57 |
| Shea Butter | 7 | 2.24 | 63.5 |
| Total | 100 | 32 | 907.18 |
Custom Additives
| Add with the Fats | |
|---|---|
| Rosemary oleoresin | 0.02 ounce |
| Add at trace | |
| thiosulfate sodium | 0.5 oz of blend (0.25% thiosulfate to 0.75% water) |
| EDTA mixed 1:1 with water | 0.46 oZ total (0.23 oz of EDTA) |
For more information on these additives you can click in the links below, please note above links are affiliate ones
- Rosemary oleresin (My oils already had this added when I masterbatched the oils)
Fragrances
| 1.10 oz maple roasted southern peach | 1.40% vanilllin |
| 1 oz market peach | 50 and 50 |
Recipe Totals
| Liquid Required | 7.17 oz | 203.41 g |
| NaOH Weight | 4.42 oz | 125.32 g |
| KOH Weight | 0.36 oz | 10.28 g at 90% Purity |
| Lye Weight | 4.78 oz | 135.6 g |
| Oil Weight | 32 oz | 907.18 g |
| Fragrance Oil Weight | 2 oz | 56.7 g |
| Superfat | 2% | |
| Total Batch Weight | 46.94 oz | 1330.7 g |
| Lye Concentration | 40% | |
| NaOH / KOH Ratio | 95% / 5% | |
| Liquid : Lye Ratio | 1.5 :1 | |
| Saturated : Unsaturated | 45:55 |
MAKING THE SOAP
- In a well ventilated area (outside or by a window), add the lye gradually to the distilled water. Do not breathe the fumes. You can freeze half of the water ahead to avoid fumes, and weigh the ice cubes. You need to wear your safety gear. Lye burns! You can prepare this several hours ahead, or even days, keep it properly covered. (If making it the same day, loosely cover it to allow it to cool. Once at room temperature, use an airtight lid).
- While you wait for the lye water to cool down, you can weigh and melt your oils, prepare the colorants by measuring them and mixing them with 1 tbs of olive oil ahead, in containers large enough to hold the soap batter for each color. I am using these. If you do not have a dollar tree nearby, this measuring cup might work too. Weigh your fragrance oil or essential oils into a glass container (fragrance oils can dissolve thin plastics). I masterbatch both the lye water solution and the oils.
- When the lye is water is under 130°F (54.44°C), you can add sodium lactate, if using. Sodium lactate helps remove the soap from a silicone mold. You can avoid it if your recipe hardens fast, use a water discount, and/or force the soap to go through gel phase. I did not use any for mine.
- I also prepared some sodium thiosulfate ahead of time to prevent vanillin discoloration from the fragrance
- When your oils and lye solution are at or below 110°F (37.77°C), put on your PPE (Personal protective equipment) and add your lye solution to the oils slowly, to avoid splatters pour it on the blender shaft.
- Stir with the blender on Off position initially, then blend for 5-7 second periods, alternating with stirring for 10 seconds or longer, until it is emulsified. This takes about 50 seconds with this recipe. When a recipe reaches emulsion, everything has a uniform, lighter color than before, you do not see the darker oil swirls when blending.
- Add the fragrance or essential oils blend
- Blend the fragrance manually with a whisk or spatula, and split into different containers for the colorants (namely, divide 15 oz for the red, the rest will be yellow color)
- Mix the colorants in with a spatula or whisk, and use the blender very briefly to incorporate if needed
- Pour one thin layer of the yellow in the mold, then start pouring both colors parallel to each other, try to go slower with the red as it is a lesser amount.
- Insulate the soap by covering it with a blanket, to help it go through gel phase
- Wait 48 hours and try releasing from one side of the mold, and if nothing sticks back, it is ready to be removed from the mold and cut. If it still sticks, wait longer or put in the freezer for 1 hour.
- Cut the soap to desired thickness bars. I use a single bar cutter. Let them cure for at least 4 weeks in an open area protected from direct sunlight before using. (not touching any metal)
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