Jem and the Holograms Soap

When I was kid, I remember watching this show, and I liked it a lot. The show was apparently done to promote the sale of a doll (Barbie like), so it only lasted 3 years. However, according to this article, it has developed a cult following (not literal cult, of course) throughout the world.

Most of the TV shows I watched growing up were produced internationally and had Spanish voiceovers, though we did have some of our shows in El Salvador, TV production there was very limited when I was growing up. The show consisted of Jerrica who had an alter ego as Jem. It was a situation similar to Clark Kent being Superman. Except she was not a superhero, and her transformation occurred thanks to a computer, Synergy, who her dad had developed. Only the members of the group knew her true identity, and she was involved in a love triangle of sorts with her boyfriend, herself and her alter ego. Most of the episodes are about them getting into some trouble, usually caused by their rival band, the Misfits, who suspect Jem has a secret identity and are overall always jealous of the Hologram’s success.

I had made this soap for a collaboration I organized last Fall, but ended up doing a different tv show soap after all.

Video:

Recipe Totals

If you are a beginner, a recipe like this one might be better. This would be more of an intermediate project, once you have several batches under your belt. Below I am using a water discount and low superfat* percentage, and a dual lye blend.

Liquid Required	7.17 oz	203.41 g
NaOH Weight	4.42 oz	125.32 g
KOH Weight	0.36 oz	10.28 g at 90% Purity
Lye Weight	4.78 oz	135.6 g
Oil Weight	32 oz	907.18 g
Fragrance Oil Weight	2 oz	56.7 g
Superfat		2%
Total Batch Weight	46.43 oz	1316.38 g
Lye Concentration		40%
NaOH / KOH Ratio		95% / 5%

Recipe Oils, Fats and Waxes

Oil	%	Ounces	Grams
Olive Oil	30	9.6	272.16
Tallow Beef	30	9.6	272.16
Coconut Oil, 76 deg	25	8	226.8
Castor Oil	8	2.56	72.57
Shea Butter	7	2.24	63.5
Total	100	32	907.18

Custom Additives (Optional)

Add with the Fats
Rosemary oleoresin	0.02 ounce
Add at trace
EDTA mixed with distilled water (50/50)	0.46 ounce

For more information on these additives you can click in the links below, please note above links are affiliate ones

• Rosemary oleresin (My oils already had this added when I masterbatched the oils)
• Tetrasodium EDTA

My affiliate links:

Several of the links above/below are affiliate links, as the ones below. If you would like to support this blog, you can use them to buy any item from those stores, it will not cost you any more, and I would get a tiny % commission on it. As amazon associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

NURTURE SOAP
AMAZON
MAKE YOUR OWN

Colorants:

Holo silver glitter (for the top)

Pink neon pigment from Nurture Soap or:
Pink Neon mica from Make your own

and another mica, which I do not remember, but I would use this instead in small amounts for a light pink:

Hollywood Pink Mica

Mold:

Rectangle 4 cavity mold from Crafter’s Choice

Fragrance:

I used Bubblegum from Lone Star Candle supplies (1 oz) with a DIY vanilla stabilizer (0.50 oz). However, due to recent IFRA changes, this fragrance is no longer soap safe.

Embeds

I made them with Crystal Clear MP and Holo silver glitter, I drew a star and cut it with a knife

Equipment

• List of regular equipment
• Soap divider. I made my own for the rimmed technique as seen in the video with a cardstock box
• To pour the soap:
• 3.5 Cup funnel pitchers
• 2 Cup funnel pitchers

Safety Equipment:

• Nitrile gloves
• Facial Shield (I use either a facial shield or the goggles below)
• Safety Goggles
• Respirator  (I use this when mixing the lye, I mix the lye in the window sill, window opened, with a pedestal fan blowing the fumes away, better yet, freeze your distilled water prior) I also try to wear long sleeves, pants and closed shoes.  In my personal experience, most of my near misses (when I feel my skin itching or a slight burning sensation), or when I come contact with the soap batter, have happened when I am wiping down the containers, when I am almost done.
  

MAKING THE SOAP

1. First I mixed the mica with olive oil in the same container I will use to pour it (funnel Pitchers linked above), I use a tiny spatula to break down clumps.
2. To make the soap, I normally heat up some of my masterbatched oils, weigh what I need and set it apart.
3. Then I measure the masterbatched lye needed. However, if you do not masterbatch the oils or lye, I detail it below:
4. In a well ventilated area (outside or by a window), add the lye gradually to the distilled water.  Do not breathe the fumes.   You can freeze half of the water ahead to avoid fumes, and weigh the ice cubes. You need to wear your safety gear.  Lye burns! You can prepare this several hours ahead, or even days ahead, keep it properly covered. (If making it the same day, loosely cover it to allow it to cool. Once at room temperature, use an airtight lid).
5. While you wait for the lye water to cool down, you can weigh and melt your oils. Weigh your fragrance oil or essential oils into a glass container or ceramic container (fragrance oils can dissolve thin plastics).
6. When your oils and lye solution are at or below 105°F (37.77°C), put on your PPE (Personal protective equipment) again, and add your lye solution to the oils slowly, to avoid splatters pour it on the blender shaft. If your lye solution is cooler than this, is ok. As long as it not near freezing. (Room temperature is fine). If your oils go under 95° F, warm them up to lightly above 100° F
7. Stir with the blender on Off position initially, then blend for 5-7 second periods, alternating with stirring for 10 seconds or longer, until it is emulsified.  This takes about 30-50 seconds with this recipe. When a recipe reaches emulsion, everything has a uniform, lighter color than before, you do not see the darker oil swirls when blending.
8. Add the fragrance to the soap and stir for about 30 seconds.
9. Divide the soap into the containers, separate about 4-5 oz and leave uncolored (for the rim) and divide the rest in half for each pink tone. For two of the soaps, I did the rim with leftover soap pieces instead.
10. I poured the uncolored outside the divider and the pinks inside. When done pouring, I slowly pulled up the divider out while scraping the sides
11. Cover with plastic to avoid soda ash (I use Press and seal) I try to promote gel phase by putting a heating pad on the floor, putting a box on top, and covering it with a blanket. I leave the heating pad on for 5 hours or so, on High.
12. Wait 48 -72 hours hours to remove,
13. Let the soap cure for at least 4 weeks in an open area protected from direct sunlight before using. (not touching any metal)